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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
seems like there is little or nothing availble of the shelf?

I was at Donington at the weekend and had a good chat to a chap in the 888MG team who was building up the front splitter.

Little more than routed out ply painted black, other teams hadn't routed out anything at all other than the curved leading edge...

which makes me wonder...

just how hard could it be???

the 888 splitter was height adjustable, not sure I need that, but was thinking about a 2"-2.5" total drop with the splitter going under the front part of the engine bay, just as the btcc ones do.

Any thoughts? Has it been done before?

(its primarily a track car (800lb fr spring rate, so very stiff), so pls no comments about kerbs and speed bumps, I am fully aware)
 

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Sounds like a good idea mate, keep us posted on how you get on, if it's not to expensive you could make & sell to forum members lol.
Was talking to wsr a while back to see of they had any zs parts left from the old btcc and they were after £1000 for front bumper and door extensions. If I had the money I would have lol. Love the front bumper from that car lol
 

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For our BRM track car we knocked up a carbon topped fibreglass splitter bolted onto an RGM moulded piece. Gives a nice touring car-esque look. Easy enough to do though just need some good measuring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
want to keep it easy to replace, like the btcc ones, so no filler or moulding to the original bumper.

probably pick up some ply tomorrow and start by cutting a shape and making a jig to route out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The Laguna splitter does us - still a sod to get a jack under
isn't that just a peice for the front, a small extension?

I was thinking more btcc style, which will go under the engine and incorperate brake cooling ducts as well.

I am after some real downforce here, remember the difference on the top gear britcar BMW?
We all laughed at Jeremy's DIY ply splitter, but it wasn't that much different from the real thing.
 

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I'd be tempted to go for some sort of hard foam rather than plywood - plywood is rather heavy. The weight doesn't matter for BTCC since they have a minimum weight and if you have to have weight then low down in front of the drive wheels is a good place for it, plus they want the strength of ply so they can "nudge" people off the track!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ply can be routed out leaving just strengthening parts, just like the 888 mg one is.
This could really get the weight right down.
(I will not be going that far, the car still has air con which weighs 10 times more than the ply will!)
 

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i'll get some pics of the one ive built, i used a fiberglass splitter from a scooby and added some side lips to it. easy to bolt off if needed. and being fiberglass it has handled the tracks well, scratched up but its still fine. Be aware of the downforce though. as its broken some of the mounts on the bumper and now im having to build extra strengthening in as the plastic bumpers flex alot unlike the btcc ones.

I wouldnt do ply right under the engine as it will do nothing to the aerodynamics and will only add weight. i was made aware it was only for regs as they has to be flat bottomed cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i'll get some pics of the one ive built, .
pics would be great.

I was thinking of under the engine to pick up sub frame fixings at the front (nr bumper) and back (under engine) so it doesn't stress the bumper too much.

I thought a flat underside helped the aero dynamics?
(the e60 bmws are flat underneath with the exception of the exhaust and are the most stable saloon car I have driven at 155mph - sadly they are limited to this)
 

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I thought a flat underside helped the aero dynamics?
(the e60 bmws are flat underneath with the exception of the exhaust and are the most stable saloon car I have driven at 155mph - sadly they are limited to this)
You need to be very careful of engine cooling if you block the space under the engine and it wont make much improvement to the aerodynamics as long as the air is blocked by a low splitter at the front. Sorting the back end so that the rear bumper doesn't scoop up and trap the air would be much more worthwhile, angle your flat surface up as a diffuser and it would easily improve rear downforce and reduce drag at the same time which will improve stability.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You need to be very careful of engine cooling if you block the space under the engine and it wont make much improvement to the aerodynamics as long as the air is blocked by a low splitter at the front. Sorting the back end so that the rear bumper doesn't scoop up and trap the air would be much more worthwhile, angle your flat surface up as a diffuser and it would easily improve rear downforce and reduce drag at the same time which will improve stability.
had in mind the rear as well, thought about removing the black lower centre peice and making something like you say.

keep in mind cooling on the front then...
 

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isn't that just a peice for the front, a small extension?

I was thinking more btcc style, which will go under the engine and incorperate brake cooling ducts as well.

I am after some real downforce here, remember the difference on the top gear britcar BMW?
We all laughed at Jeremy's DIY ply splitter, but it wasn't that much different from the real thing.
yes the Laguna jobby isn't much really; we are using the foglight holes for brake ducts.
What series are you intending to enter, are you sure the regs allow add-on body parts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
yes the Laguna jobby isn't much really; we are using the foglight holes for brake ducts.
What series are you intending to enter, are you sure the regs allow add-on body parts?
its just a track car at the mo.
I run ex btcc slicks, -2 rear camber & 1deg toe in, between 2.5 & 3 front, but I need to mod this to -3 or just over.
800fr/600rr springs
r800 inlet manifold - this may stop any production class racing?
lsd and close ratio box - rover, not quaife or anything fancy.

I have in the back of my mind racing, but at the mo, I don't know enough of the circuits well enough and the car isn't quick enough

On another note you may be able to help with;
The car is very planted, but the tyres are wearing from the centre to the outside edge, front and back, the insides are picking up the snot off the track.
One of the btcc teams sugested it may just be that the tyres had gone off and overheated.
Unlike a 20 min race, I work the things hard, 2 or 3 drivers on a track day and I'll try and get every last bit from the tyres.
These tyres I cut a few treads into, to help get heat into them during the colder months (jan, feb) but I now understand this was a bad idea and can see that in its wear.
Another sugestion was to turn them round, apparently dunlop chamfer the inside and they can wear better (and more rubber) when spun.

I remember the top gear slick wearing issue when there was no splitter. (The e46 really needs one as its not a stable car at speed) Kinda going on the lines of downforce as well.

Any tips greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
a bit of progress.

used an old mk2 bumper no-one would give me 40quid for, got rid of the fog lamp holes (not needed on trackdays - in fact can't remember last time I used fog lights, I doubt I'd know which button was front and which rears)
painted correct colour, then a bit of ply stuck to the bottom.

The gauze in the middle is for 2 brake cooling ducts - next project.
 

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Jason, is there any pics of your r800 inlet manifolds? thanks for reply. Mike
 

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a bit of progress.

used an old mk2 bumper no-one would give me 40quid for, got rid of the fog lamp holes (not needed on trackdays - in fact can't remember last time I used fog lights, I doubt I'd know which button was front and which rears)
painted correct colour, then a bit of ply stuck to the bottom.

The gauze in the middle is for 2 brake cooling ducts - next project.
Looks nice! i would certainly make the bottom lip stick out a lot more but nice job! as for the brake ducts use the part on the bumper where ducts could be just next to where the fog lights go. if you open them up and remove the arch linings inside the wing they will flow air right onto the brakes better than that gap on the bottom of your splitter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Looks nice! i would certainly make the bottom lip stick out a lot more but nice job! as for the brake ducts use the part on the bumper where ducts could be just next to where the fog lights go. if you open them up and remove the arch linings inside the wing they will flow air right onto the brakes better than that gap on the bottom of your splitter.
had thought about it that way, but...

problem with the o/s one is the washer bottle is right behind it.

and the other side i am using for air intake manifold.

fog lights have metal work behind so would make things convuluted.

want to pipe right up to the discs for cooling.

trackdriver mag had an interesting write up on splitters and aerodynamics, where best to locate and how.
kinda went with some of that and the btcc splitter as used on the new mg which has cooling the same place as mine.

its all very prototype at the mo.
 

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had thought about it that way, but...

problem with the o/s one is the washer bottle is right behind it.

and the other side i am using for air intake manifold.

fog lights have metal work behind so would make things convuluted.

want to pipe right up to the discs for cooling.

trackdriver mag had an interesting write up on splitters and aerodynamics, where best to locate and how.
kinda went with some of that and the btcc splitter as used on the new mg which has cooling the same place as mine.

its all very prototype at the mo.
i'll have a check on what i did that side as i cant remember at the mo, ive attached my old syle splitter but this one broke most of the connections
 

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