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Front wheels steer, rear wheels drive.
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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
damn thats fast, about same terminal speed as Ed but over a second quicker time.
What power are you pushing and what was your 60ft times, i doubt front drive will ever match them launches.
 

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That picture is just great in how that back tyre has been captured.:yup:
 

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Dave!
I dont know what power she is making now. I put her on the rollers last August with a 100 shot and the smaller rear tyres. She was making 320bhp at the fly and about 390 ft/lbs of torque. But since then we have been running a 200 shot of gas. So I'm hoping my torque figure is closer to 450 ft/lbs now.
 

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Front wheels steer, rear wheels drive.
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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
woohoo, blummin rapid v8 then even with no gas,lol.
How longs a bottle last with 200 shots ?
 

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Perry

What 60’s and 330's you pulling with those wrinkle walls?
Are you using rim screws?
I’m suitably impressed with that picture, wouldn’t mind a glossy copy myself, fantastic launch, and must feels absolutely nuts out of the hole.
At some stage I’ll try out the slicks, currently I’m on MT Street Radials, these are acceptable for TOTB, although by August I want to have a few runs on slicks to see how my times improve.
 

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Front wheels steer, rear wheels drive.
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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
it says something for an old v8 engine that it can take a 200 shot of nos because there arent many engines i would dare try to run a 200 shot through for fear of dramatic failure.How standard is the engine have you built it stronger?
 

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ED!
60 foots running around the 1.6 - 1.7 mark at the mo. 330 feet around the 4.3 - 4.7 mark. I'm not using rim screws yet. But the tyres did move about 10mm on the rims after 11 runs. But then they were nearly flat eh?
I cant begin to tell you how it feels on a hard launch right now. The hardest launch of the day gave more air under the tyre than the launch in the picture. And it also pulled the front bolts out of the two front seat rail mounts. The bolts are fine as are the captive nut mounts and floorpan. But the threads stripped out of the 34 year old slightly rusty nuts. Luckily the seat leans back on the roll bar so it didnt tip right back. I think its time to invest in a smaller seat as this one is a bit of an armchair really. I think I'll just knock up a new floorpan in 1/4" ally plate and bolt it in so I can make new mounts for a new seat at some time.

Dave!
As per the old Factory MGB V8 3500 engine which I managed to squeeze 257bhp out of (from the 134bhp stock) with a 50 shot. This one is all stock internals apart from ARP head studs and a better cam. The engine has about 90,000 miles under its belt and still runs stock Rover journal bolts and big end bolts. It has not been rebored, just a light hone and standard size rings. The heads are stock EFI but with stronger double valve springs + all standard rocker gear. (its from a scrap Range rover)

Originally this engine had those crappy TVR style pistons with the valve cutouts in them. These were **** and failed halfway through my first ever run at the Pod with this engine with only a 100 shot. I chucked these out and fitted a set of standard Rover cast pistons which meant I had a small problem with the valves getting a bit close to the pistons, so I just shimmed the rocker pedestals to make sure I had my minimum safe gap of around 68 thou. This has reduced my overall valve lift a little, but I dont mind. ( I wish I had got the engine rebored, as +20 pistons are half the price of standard ones) I have modified the piston rings to my own formula though, which seems to be paying off at the moment. I have several little mods that I do to these stock engines so they can be used with bit shots of nitrous. But these are simply limited to modifiying the piston rings, a slight tweak to the bores, a slight tweak to the oil pump, a slight tweak to the spark plugs and a slight tweak to the cooling system.
All of which take a couple of hours in the garage with DIY tools.

People under estimate just how much you can get out of a Rover V8 if you just apply a bit of common sense for the application eh?

If this was a track car that needed to be screaming for lap after lap, the mods would be totally different.

My engine only needs to run to about 2-3 times its design limit for 12 seconds which I can make happen quite easily with my limited resources.

I spoke to a bloke at the weekend with a Rover V8 which was tuned up to 5.3 litres in a car lighter than mine. He was happy to tell me the engine cost £8,000 to build and should leave everything in its wake on the strip. His best of the weekend was 13.1 seconds. If I had £8k to spend on an engine I'd be sticking a big yank crate Motor in the B !!

I'm happy to keep on as I am with this engine as parts are pretty cheap and I can do all the work at home. This engine from start to finish has cost me about a grand.

I suppose I should stick it on the rollers this year at sometime to get a baseline idea of the torque its producing. But thats going to cost the same as a nitrous refill. So I'll get more gas instead :)
 

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Off topic slightly, but what would a ZS hatch running full interior, 167 WHP and standard rims (Avon ZZ3s) hope to achieve down the strip?
 

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If you’re able to nail a 2.2 60 foot and full throttle gear shifts you should be in the ball park of 14.8, need to keep the throttle to the floor while changing gear, not easy if you’re not used to it, should cross the line at the top of 3rd, just off the limiter (93mph).
 

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Thanks Ross, Ed,

Interesting predictions. A similar pace to an Accord Type R by the looks of it.
 

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What about a stripped saloon with below mods.....?

Should crack 13s at a guess with a good launch?
 

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What are vis valves?
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What about a stripped saloon with below mods.....?

Should crack 13s at a guess with a good launch?

well with a 2.2 60ft supercharged stipped but not huge i ran a 13.8.

dave ran a 13.9 but his was fairly stripped iirc. either way a quick time but it isnt the easyest getting a good time at pod, and .1 of a second is a nightmare to gain.

iv since run a 13.7 and then a 13.5 in may last year, which is generally down to weight loss.

r888's are a bit of a pain for launches, better of with road tyres, they do launch but its hit and miss.
 

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No longer a Rover / MG owner.
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Off topic slightly, but what would a ZS hatch running full interior, 167 WHP and standard rims (Avon ZZ3s) hope to achieve down the strip?
Get down to 'Pod next time and try it.:racer:

It's down to reaction times and when you change gear mainly, but most ZS180's will hit the 15 second bracket easily due to the mid range torque.

When I went to 'Pod in my old ZS180 I ran a 15.5 sec run and a handful of 16's.

My likkle vi runs mid 16's all day, but that is thanks to the fact it revs to 7200rpm and max power at about 6500rpm. Oh, and it's a bit lighter than a ZS180
 

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Front wheels steer, rear wheels drive.
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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
What about a stripped saloon with below mods.....?

Should crack 13s at a guess with a good launch?
best i did without nos was 14.1 and that was fairly heavily stripped, a lot more than just spare seats and spare wheel out. You should be running same power i was but the flywheel could give you a very real tenth or 2 gain.

However if i was you i would be very happy with anything around 14.5 or less but depends on lots of factors. On the right day with favourable conditions and some practice a decent time can come quite easily but if anythings not perfect you can run all day and never bag the time.
 

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Interesting. Anything in the low 14s would be nice. I guess theres only one way to find out....lol
I think the flywheel should make a nice difference, but it certainly is harder getting the power down in 1st now. If i didnt have the diff i think it would be quite tricky sometimes.
 

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I think bob is looking at taking his cavalier to the pod soon -might this sat if weathers good

Nice time by the way great improvement!
 

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Turned out to be quite a good day overall.
I got 7 runs in total.
I managed a new PB of 11.24 as well.
I also found out that my engine is maxxed out at this level due to the stock pistons not being able to cope with the abuse.
My new nitrous system is developing so much torque its just not true!! And the new Mickey Thompson tyres are hooking so well.

This new combination shows that I need a rear ARB and better axle location because she does this off the line every time now......Which is nice, bearing in mind I'm still running a stock 34 year old rear axle with the diff cogs welded together.

 
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