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Project ZR Evo

14208 Views 56 Replies 23 Participants Last post by  Tomcat Racer
Some of you will have seen the evo bits in the workshop recently, but now it's time for the build. I'll just go through the pics and explain along the way.

The donor car was a front and rear smashed (spun) Evo 9 FQ300 (with only 3000miles on it!!). I only got the running gear, and not all of it, the interior and chassis was returned to the seller. The front brakes were missing and a few of the rear suspension arms were bent and the hub carrier broken.




The floorpan was cut out for all the rear suspension mounts and prop mounting.



Picture taken for reference.



The ECU's removed, and you'll see the full wiring loom attacted to the engine still.





Before anything else can be done, the broken parts that need to be used would require fixing.

The timing belt cover was broken, as well as a chip out of the bottom pulley, so this week i got a new timing belt cover from a dealer.



Ive fitted the bottom cover, but also need to sort out the powersteering pump and an aux belt idler which both have bent pulleys.

The gearbox also had broken where the front mount bolts on, so the gearbox was removed, and welded up, then refit to the engine.



Work also started on the rear hubs, i removed one from the broken carrier to use as a test. the holes were welded up, then the face shall be machined flat again, and the center machined for the wheel center as well as being redrilled.

#

I also gave some parts to nathan25 as he's going to work his magic with them.





Rocker cover removed.



Next job is to start fixing the rear suspension, get it bolted up into the floorpan and make some fixed bars instead of the springs and dampers so i can get the height and wheel angles set up.

I'll be updating this thread every few days/week with progress as progress happens, but it's also on other forums, so you may want to check these too.

Adrian
AAautosport

www.aaautosport.co.uk
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Great thread, well done on the rear end, now the fun part getting the engine and running gear sorted.

Best of luck with it, really will be a one off when its completed.

:wave:
Small update guys (and girls).

I've been quite busy over the past year or so (and a little lazy on the project - case of working on cars all day, then wanting to go home rather than sticking at work and cracking on with it.)

Anyway, have got my head back into it, and progression is/has happened.

After a lot of work, the rear floorpan is in.

All the old floorpan was chopped out, a slit down the original tunnel, and a porta-power used to expand the back end of the ZR by several centermeters.

Once the evo pan was in and lined up, it was welded in 4 places (at the sills and at the top of the arches).

Once this was done, i then shaped the arches of the evo and ZR to match, and tacked them in place. I had a gas leak on the Mig, so had to tack them without gas, this was a very time consuming job, tack, shape, tack, shape, etc etc. After this was done, the arches were tig welded (which is nearly finished, just a couple of awkward to get to places).

The wheels went back on and the shell held it's own weight on its own wheels for the first time in a while, thus allowing it to be repositioned on the ramp to keep the weight distributed well.






Have had to make some plates to cover some holes that were cut in the engine bay (to allow for the engine/gearbox), welding these in is next on the list, and then fit the engine back in the bay, just on the top two mounts (cambelt and gearbox) without the transfer box. Then i'll be having to work out how to go about the steering rack/transfer box. An evo 4/5/6 transfer box would allow for more room as the output to the prop is a lot lower, however, it is a weaker design (although the later type is prone to whining). We shall see.

Adrian
www.AAautosport.co.uk
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So with the back end in, but not finished, more work started at the front, leaving the back to be completed when work is finished on the tunnel.
I made the main plates for the engine mounts months ago, but now wanted to get them in place.
The position of the engine was determined by a few things, the drive shafts being the main one, the bonnet, and the tie rod bar with regards to the gearbox.

The chassis was notched to give extra clearance for the alternator, which sits to the rear of the engine.



On the gearbox side, where a considerable amount had been cut from the chassis, a piece of box section tubing was cut, inserted into the chassis and welded in to help give it some strength back. The gearbox mount main plates sit on this as well as going up the arch.

The engine and box went back in to check the mounts were still in the same position after the mounts had been almost fully welded (there are some awkward to get to places still left to weld.
At this point, the mounts were bolted up and we lifted the engine a few centre meters by lifting the car on the ramp. I was expecting to see the gearbox mount twist as it was lifted, but it remained strong, even though the engine was now fully supported by the two mounts. After a few other jobs, the mounts will be getting top plates on them, with tubes welded from the mount itself to the suspension turret, so the weight of the engine is transferred via these to the suspension strut, which obviously takes the weight of the car. This will help relieve the stress on the chassis which has been modified somewhat.
This is the picture of the engine whilst supported by the chassis.



After this, the hole in the chassis was plated, this isn't yet finished, and there is excess plate at the bottom still to cut off.



This is how the car was left yesterday, next to do is finish welding and strengthening the mounts then brace them to the chassis/turrets, then get some primer around the bay and inside the chassis rails to stop it rusting for now.

Adrian
AAautosport
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struth theres a lot of work but keep going it will be a right sleeper.
ball"s out project........will be a proper little wepon when finished,keep up the great work
Another small update.

Put top plates on both mounts.



Have finished welding the plate in the previous post, and started cleaning off the paint and seam welding the engine bay. Once the seam welding is done, the supports from the mounts to the turrets can be welded in place, then i will be happy for the engine bay to take the weight of the engine so work can start underneath.
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Right then. The engine has been in and out way too many times to get this far. The main problem is the transfer box and the steering rack, one wants to run where the other is. I can move the steering rack, but this will play hell with the steering geometery. I can overcome some of this by re-drilling the hubs and have the track rod end at the top rather than the bottom of the hub, i can then move the rack higher. The other option i have is to use an earlier evo transfer box, from a 4, 5 or 6. Now this fits under the rack (with some frame modification). This is the one fitted when pictured.

Problems with this is that the earlier one is weaker, in that the output shaft to the prop is weak (as well as the front diff, but i'd replace that as its open as standard). The later one is stronger throughout, (although prone to whining if not serviced and preloaded properly).

Leaves me with a decision to make, as "beefing" up the earlier type is a very expensive business, and many big power 4, 5 and 6's opt to change to the 7, 8 and 9 transfer box set up, with a lot of work involved in doing this. The thing is, the ealier type (as pictured) seems to fit too well...











Adrian

AAautosport
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Any more news on this? Sounds and Looks amazing so far carn't wait to see it finished! Keep up the hard work mate! :yup:
cant wait till you have this done it sounds mental will definately surprise and embarass a few of the corsas and saxos at the lights
More progress. Tunnel is in




Then to driveshafts,
i measured how far the end of the shaft protudes out of each joint, the width of the joint, and the length between the joints, so i have a total length of the desired shaft. I have found a company that will make a shaft using the two shafts and friction welding them together, which is a lot cheaper than new shafts. A broom handle was used and cut down to make the shafts to measure with, it required some tape on the ends to be reasonably tight in the joint, then, once in place, could move the joints along the handle, and using a coilover with no spring, was able to move the suspension through its entire movement and steering to check clearance.






For the shafts, 220 shafts measure at just under 27.2mm, k-series PG1 shafts measure at 26.2mm, and the evo shafts at 26mm in diameter. Obviously i wanted to use the turbo shafts, as they have a larger spline, and larger outer CV joint. I decided that the best option would be to use ZS180 shafts. These use the smaller 26.2mm shaft (within the tolerance they required for friction welding), but with the larger spline for the larger outer CV joint, so i can use the outer of this shaft, with a 220 outer CV joint (as the ZS one differs slightly). Result.

Adrian
AAautosport
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Went to Bromley Pageant yesterday and was talking to a guy who had a 4 wheel drive Ford Anglia, Subaru flat 4 power plant.

Said you were doing a ZR and up pops the thread.





Engine looked lost even in the Anglia engine bay!!

He said he deliberately left it in the rough state so you could see what he had done!!!

:wave:
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Managed to get some decent progress with the chassis over the past few weeks.

Visually you might not see much in relation to what you would expect, but a hell of a lot of welding and fabrication has gone into it. A few more sections at the back and the interior, engine bay and underside of the car are ready for spraying.



ZR handbrake welded into position







Clutch pedal modded for hydraulic cluch. The slave cylinder was easier to mount inside the car, this allowed to pedal movement, slave movement, and pressure to be equal to that of the evo.







Front end modded to allow for a thick radiator. It mounts a few cm further forward at the bottom than the standard rover ratiator, allowing for the bottom rad pipe, and more manifold/turbo room. The rad is a thick core version for use on the EVO 4/5/6, I used this as the top pipe sits toward the passenger side of the car, rather than the one from the 7/8/9, which ends up restricting the manifold as the top hose is more central on the rad.











Most parts seam sealed and a quick primer to cover bare metal.

The plan is to spray everything but the outside of the car, then fit the cage, which should allow access to the hard to get to places before the cage is in.

Adrian

www.AMWmotorsport.co.uk
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Another update. Shell so far is painted. Wanted to get this done so any hard to get to places could be done before installing the cage.



















Please note, the paint is black, the flash makes it look grey.

Adrian

www.AMWmotorsport.co.uk
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Nice build quite a few people doing this now with different cars! Quick question tho why you using the GSR AYC rear diff over the RS LSD set-up
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