MG & Rover - XPower Forums banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
hi all,

does anyone here have a near side front caliper they want to sell?unless anyone no's how to get a seized piston out,i have new pads/dosks and the piston moves in and out when brake pressed but cant get it ti go back anuff to get the new pads in,done the drivers side ok it just the passenger side,any ideas would be great as tried everything i can think of doin.got a clamp in there again the old pads and used all my force to move it back so as to get the new pads in its not budging!!!
 

·
YELLOW PERIL
Joined
·
2,407 Posts
When you did the drivers side did you use a special tool to wind the piston back??? I've not done mine but I think you have to wind the piston back in rather than just push it back.

My old MGB was just push a screwdriver in between the old pad and the piston and force it back.

Could be wrong though, sure someone will come along who knows better than me.

:wave:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,703 Posts
Easy to do with a wide blade like a chisel or one of those spanners that tighten the disc on an angle grinder etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
no,i havent the bleed nipple open as all the pad replacements i've done inthe past has let me get away with that and the pressure that i was putting on it it should of moved,i have looked in the haynes manual and although sometimes wong it does say just push it back,if only it was that simple!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,442 Posts
It's only the rear calipers that you need to wind the piston in.

For the fronts you can just compress the piston, I usually crack the bleed nipple open to make it easier, and also because I was told that having fluid going in the opposite direction back towards the m/cyl is not good for the abs.
 

·
YELLOW PERIL
Joined
·
2,407 Posts
Thanks Pete, sorts me out, I've got the pads, so now know how to.

Hope cracking the bleed nipple, helps mgzszszs, with his problem.

:wave:
 

·
The Pope
Joined
·
3,408 Posts
Take the caliper off its sliders by undoing the bolts, then fit a G clamp to it and wind the bugger in after opening the blead nipple. If it refuses to go after a certain point there must be something inside it that stopping the piston returning! Is the dust shield rubber complete without any splits or tears?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
10,642 Posts
If you're not sure how to replace front pads/get the pistons back in then you really shouldn't be doing such work on a motor car!
 

·
YELLOW PERIL
Joined
·
2,407 Posts
Yesterday got my car MOT'd at Nationwide Autocentre, passed with 3 advisories, NSR tread pattern slightly distorted, front and rear pads wearing thin.

They priced up the work, £110 for the fronts and £116 for the rears, as I have the pads think its worth DIY.

Its not till you get into the pads and try and push the piston back when you need to know if its a wind back, or just clamp, or pressure required.

Thats the idea of the Forum to give advice when its required, I agree you dont want to endanger your life, or other road users, but once you have the piston back the new pads will fit. If they will not, then you have problems that will need investigating.

If it gets more technical like the belts on a V6, I for one know my limitations and wouldnt hesitate to take it to one of the pros on here.

By the way, if you book on line with Nationwide its only £27.42 incl VAT.

:wave:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
i didnr say i dint no how to change pads what i said was has anyone got a caliper for sale or is this a common prob that can be fixed,get yer fax rite before jabbing at others.
 

·
Flying the Flag
Joined
·
212 Posts
Is yours a 180 mate?

If not I've got a 120 which I'll be breaking later on this week, it'll be in Seaford so no need to waste on postage either.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top