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MG ZR Rally Car Build

71650 Views 136 Replies 42 Participants Last post by  Salkeld96, 
forestfighter
Hi guys.

It's been a while since i posted on here showing my car. I thought i would show you what i've been busy with....
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forestfighter
bluntyn40 said:
no probs fella, have you managed get the car weighed yet ?
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I might take it to the local farm this weekend. Not sure how accurate the agricultural weighing bridges are, but i should get a rough indication! :)
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forestfighter
5
Well i got back Friday night and got the car ready for it to start. Cut a long story short - it didn't!!!

After spending yesterday checking things over, we finally got it to run. Got the car out fo the garage and gave it a spruce up.





Took it for a spin and only got 2 miles before it broke down - LMFAO!




So it's back in garage again - broken alterntor! :(
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redzs180
car looks fantastic mate! when do going to start racing?
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forestfighter
redzs180 said:
car looks fantastic mate! when do going to start racing?
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Thanks bud. I should think it will be later this year, as it still needs a few bits finishing. Its mainly gearbox parts needed. Need to get saving! :)
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forestfighter
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forestfighter
Took a nice pic tonight. Thought i would post it! :)
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J
Looks great mate. Lot of time spend on it. Just a little thing if i were you id touch up the L-plates on the mud guards. Love the flocked dash
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forestfighter
9
Update....

Summer is almost here. Diet time :twak2:

Door before.



Started to choppy chop.


Rain persuaded me to move indoors... :D




The rain! :potblack:


Need wheels?? lol


Finished and painted!


Now for the other door! :(

:racer:
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Snowy Senior
You must be very brave man. Very...
Even if regulations allow to take high strengh steel bar out of the door I wouldn`t do it ever. If or when you hit sideways a tree, lamp pole or something you are dead man. Human is weakest against impact from side.
If WRC cars can not hold hitting trees sideways why ......

This weight saving tinkerig is waste of time against safety. You still have heavy steel petrol tank and five kilos fiber under it. Manufacture a kevlar tail gate with plastic class you save instantly 20 kg. Buy safety tank and install it to the boot.
etc.

I know you are telling that you have good roll gages. Yes you have, I have, Rally Matt have. But they are not enough the day you hit somethink door first.

Please change untouched door back. We want you to stay alive.
( Cant save much anyway, 2 kilos per door max )
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forestfighter
Point taken. I completely understand all of what you just said and the same has ran through my head numerous times.

The end of the day motorsport is dangerous. People who compete, compete knowing that it's dangerous. If you slide sideways into a tree, then you don't stand much chance walking away anyway. You also forget that WRC cars travel much faster than a little ZR.

Fibreglass boot and bonnet are next on the cards along with perspex windows.

Thanks for your input :)
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Maxxed_Ross
I want that roof scoop and foot well tray.... do they make them to sell or was it a one off?
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forestfighter
Maxxed_Ross said:
I want that roof scoop and foot well tray.... do they make them to sell or was it a one off?
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They are all made by a company called Rallytech mate. They are all stuff that can be bought. However, i think the navigator foot tray was from an Impreza WRC or something...

The roof scoops are specifically for the ZR. :)
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Maxxed_Ross
cheers buddy I'll go have a look
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B
Your car is coming along nicely. I cant believe you broke down on the mad mile and I didnt even see you :sorry: I'm usually going up and down there at some point and always on the look out for you, ah well maybe next time.
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forestfighter
Billbo's Mrs said:
Your car is coming along nicely. I cant believe you broke down on the mad mile and I didnt even see you :sorry: I'm usually going up and down there at some point and always on the look out for you, ah well maybe next time.
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Lol. Yeah i was the one hiding pretending it wasn't my car... Bloody rovers... tut tut! :D
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forestfighter
4
Well i managed to get some suspension sorted. 2 way adjustable Gaz Golds. I bought them from a lad who had them on his car for a month them it blew up. They hadn't done many miles, but then were stood for a while untill he eventually broke the car. They currently have tarmac springs fitted, but will get gravel springs too. A bit of a billy bargain. Gave them a good oil/clean and then fitted them. They seem very good from just a quick run round the block. :)


Fitted. Nice and stiff! :)




John
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Snowy Senior
Which kind of rallies you are going to drive. This supension has so thin front shock piston, looks like about 20 mm that it can`t stand any hits. Wheel travel is looking very special short. If measured from the picture must be near or even less than 100 mm. This setup is good only if driven on absolutely smooth tarmac.

Don`t waste time to install gravel spring on these, specially if you have to buy new springs. On gravel the grip is done of course by right kind of spring rate and shock valving, but also by max long wheel travel.
Compare pictures about my suspension in my gallery. Page 22. It is made only for ultra fast driving on gravel or snow. Front shock piston is 50 mm thick to take hits without bending. My wheel travel in front is limited now to 190 mm for 65 cm winter tyres. I must use std bottom arm and ball joint but next season with new rules we can have more travel out, which will make car faster.
In rear my wheel travel is 200 mm. In your new suspension wheel travel is shorter that in std ZR 160.
Don`t wait too much from this set up on gravel or bumpy tarmac.

If you want to have right kind of spring rates for rally ZR send a PM to Rally Matt. My spring rates are far too soft for Brittish taste.
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Rally Matt
I am with Snowy here too, they are way to short travel for anything other than a track day car. If you are attacking corners on even a smooth (no where in UK is smooth!) they will snap like carrots, I know its what you have bought but Gaz have an awful reputation for pistons bending.

I would be most worried about the travel, they are just way too short, you will loose so much grip and car will skip about like a pig or as the french call them R5 GT Turbo. The big asset of the ZR is the suspension, long travel with coil overs at rear and struts on front.

Leda are very very strong, even serviced s/h ones would be a good bet. Then you can look at Avo who use same inverted principle as Bilstein invented, these are even stronger. Don't go too hard on springs, many do and loose so much potential. Also run car higher than std ZR ride heights for best performance on UK stages.

I tested special Bilstein set up on Jorma's ZR and also a BMW 325 RWD in Finland, it is excellent and you can attack the stage with total confidence and it responds perfectly, Timo of Bilstien Finland really knows how to build proper rally suspension.

On your door bars, not wanting to frighten you but have been doing some work with FIA Institute following the death of Michael Park (Beef)

with current WRC specification cages and shells a side impact at 30mph 90% chance of death from damage to internal organs. New rules are coming and maybe even side impact airbags.
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forestfighter
Snowy Senior said:
Which kind of rallies you are going to drive. This supension has so thin front shock piston, looks like about 20 mm that it can`t stand any hits. Wheel travel is looking very special short. If measured from the picture must be near or even less than 100 mm. This setup is good only if driven on absolutely smooth tarmac.

Don`t waste time to install gravel spring on these, specially if you have to buy new springs. On gravel the grip is done of course by right kind of spring rate and shock valving, but also by max long wheel travel.
Compare pictures about my suspension in my gallery. Page 22. It is made only for ultra fast driving on gravel or snow. Front shock piston is 50 mm thick to take hits without bending. My wheel travel in front is limited now to 190 mm for 65 cm winter tyres. I must use std bottom arm and ball joint but next season with new rules we can have more travel out, which will make car faster.
In rear my wheel travel is 200 mm. In your new suspension wheel travel is shorter that in std ZR 160.
Don`t wait too much from this set up on gravel or bumpy tarmac.

If you want to have right kind of spring rates for rally ZR send a PM to Rally Matt. My spring rates are far too soft for Brittish taste.
Click to expand...
Rally Matt said:
I am with Snowy here too, they are way to short travel for anything other than a track day car. If you are attacking corners on even a smooth (no where in UK is smooth!) they will snap like carrots, I know its what you have bought but Gaz have an awful reputation for pistons bending.

I would be most worried about the travel, they are just way too short, you will loose so much grip and car will skip about like a pig or as the french call them R5 GT Turbo. The big asset of the ZR is the suspension, long travel with coil overs at rear and struts on front.

Leda are very very strong, even serviced s/h ones would be a good bet. Then you can look at Avo who use same inverted principle as Bilstein invented, these are even stronger. Don't go too hard on springs, many do and loose so much potential. Also run car higher than std ZR ride heights for best performance on UK stages.

I tested special Bilstein set up on Jorma's ZR and also a BMW 325 RWD in Finland, it is excellent and you can attack the stage with total confidence and it responds perfectly, Timo of Bilstien Finland really knows how to build proper rally suspension.

On your door bars, not wanting to frighten you but have been doing some work with FIA Institute following the death of Michael Park (Beef)

with current WRC specification cages and shells a side impact at 30mph 90% chance of death from damage to internal organs. New rules are coming and maybe even side impact airbags.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the input.

The GAZ's are a make shift setup really as funds don't stretch far atm. Matt - if you come accross anything going that would suit me, i would appreciate it if you could pm me or something... I want to do a mixture of Tar and Gravel. I almost bought some Ohlins a while back, but got beaten to them....

I was intending on using the car with the GAZ's for single venues, just to get some miles under my belt. I always had doubts that they would be durable enough for forest stages, even though someone from GAZ said they would be ok. He mentioned a few of the Revival cars run them?? I know the revival cars are very different to stage rally cars, but they tackle similar surfaces...??

I'm pleased i'm getting input - that's why i made this thread. This is my first build, so i'm looking for guidance where i can!

Thanks

John
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Snowy Senior
I know the feeling. Passion for building a rally car, but limited budget. Have been " in there " many times.:twak2:

How it hurts the only right order to build the car ( after donor car and safety parts ) is : at first good suspension build for rallies to come. If wheels are not staying on ground your ZR will be hopeless to drive. At the same time you should instal Powerflex push set ( whole a lot of them ) and have a professional 4 wheel alignment.

The next thing is a gearbox with proper competition ratios and final drive. Before installing it into the car you need a LSD. Not a track day torsen, a real plate lsd. The best for PG 1 is made in UK.:racer:

Then the best brake bads for 160 brakes you can buy. Any kind of EBC is forbidden. After that comes all common staf ( lamp pods, guards, fuel lines etc ).

The last thing is the engine. Good gear ratios are worth of 25 hp in wheels, that is why gearbox comes in second place.

I did not buy Öhlins, Reiger or Proflex. 7000 £ is waste of money if not driven seriously for the championship. About that money I could buy my suspension and a dog box. And still capable to tease Civic boys.

Buy the suspension from a company which can re valve your shocks at once.
When you change spring rates shock valving must set for new springs to get any benefits.
If you are going to drive on tarmac and gravel the same set up as Rally Matt has, is a compromise good enough. For gravel only spring rates should be one step softer.

Don`t hesitate to ask, we will help where we can.
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