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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As title, how do I go about rectifying this? Can't drive it like this, every time I take my foot off the accelerator it's rapidly pulling me to a stop.
Not to mention that I don't want to damage the new rear discs and pads on the rear.
Please help me before I pull what remaining hair I have left out!

Thanks guys :)
 

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Is it the handbrake itself or pads or caliper sticking?
 

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Hi, did you wind the calipers in when you fitted your new rear discs? and you need to make sure that the cross hair in the middle of the pot is straight so that the pegs on the rear of the pads align correctly. adjust the hand brake by stepping on the brake peddle whilst engine running and applying the hand brake until it is effective within 2 clicks.
 

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Its also worth inspecting the slider pins whist you have the carrier removed from the caliper. For some reason mine had been lubed with copper grease at some point in its history which had started to clump! regreased with CV grease [perfectly acceptable aternate] and pins slide freely again. just an after thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sliders were all regreased when brakes were done about a month ago, handbrake is within correct clicks too.
Right had the car on axle stands. NSR fully stuck on, OSR stuck on a little bit. I sprayed them all up, had cuppa and a *** then set about trying to loosen them off. I managed to loosen them a bit but not enough really. Handbrake has the right amount of clicks as well. Also the OSR seems to move freely for half a turn then gets stuck. I thought about the discs being warped but they have only been on there a month (Mintex Ones) Is it possible that the disc wasn't seated right when doing up the nuts??
It's got to go into the garage as I don't have the time to do it. Using the other half's car for work and going away in mine on Sat'
 

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Pal, Ive seen a lot of people blame their discs for being warped when in actual fact its just they're not sat right. it takes a bit of patience to get them perfect. check out my recent thread were i set up a DTI to see if the new disks i fitted were straight or not. That is the only way i would be happy that the disks are actually fitted correctly. I will be selling a set of nearly new OE 180 disks soon that have been measured on a granite flatbed with feelers to assure that they are straight before i get any claims that they are warped when i know they arnt, but may not be fitted correctly.
 

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Keep your hair on, it's not rocket science ... :)

Who fitted the discs a month ago? Were there backing shims on the New Pads ? Assuming new pads with New discs.

I would slacken off the nut fully on the adjuster under the centre Armrest and release BOTH handbrake cables from their cranks on the two rear calipers. Then get a spanner ( 17mm IIRC ) on the Crank and move it back and forth fully a few times. This picture shows what I did on a Rover 600 caliper. The designs are very similar on the ZS and 600s.



Then fully reassemble the Handbrake cable to the Crank along with it's tension return spring as here :~



Then readjust the Handbrake Cable nut under the centre Armrest to give about 9-10 clicks fully on from fully off. Release the handbrake lever fully then see if you can turn both rear Discs by hand. You should be able to do this. There is always some resistance but, if set up correctly, you can turn the discs by hand. Then refit the wheels and reapply the handbrake fully. Now see if you can turn the wheels by hand. You should not be able to do that. Before refiiting both wheels, as a double check I even place a larger breaker bar on two Wheel Nut Studs and use that as a lever to turn the Disc with the handbrake on. If it does not grip, something is wrong. If you cannot rotate the disc with little effort with handbrake fully off then again something is wrong.

I had something like this happen when working on rear brake calipers after fitting new Pads. Locked solid with handbrake fully off. I was only able to free up the discs so that they could be rotated by hand by removing those shims that are fitted to the back of some new Brake Pads ~ this was on an MG ZS :~



You can see the metal 'shims' on the back of the two brake pads I had to remove to free up the disc in this picture :~



If in the unlikely event none of the above work, then chances are the auto-adjuster has not been primed properly. In that case, it means taking the caliper off and turning the caliper piston in as far as it would go and starting again.
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the comments guys, and the pics are brill but it turned out to be a knackered calliper not retracting fully and causing the sticking on. Disc were checked too and yes it was warped, due to the heat that was generated (makes sense). New calliper going on today with new discs and pads again :(
 

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until it is effective within 2 clicks.
I reckon 7.
Sorry pal, think you quoted me out of context there. 7 clicks, 9 clicks, 20 clicks, surely depends how far you wound your pistons in don'tit? Anyway, applying/repeating until "effective" within 2 clicks is how I wrote/read it. Karma indeed!

Oh,and glad you got to the bottom of it kirk. My bucks were on slider pins.
 
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