MG & Rover - XPower Forums banner
1 - 20 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi can anyone advise me if the standard ZS180 can have a fast road setup or if I require any uprated parts are required? Also we're to go for a fast road setup? Cheers guys :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,492 Posts
What are you hoping to achive, the civic boys use standard 180 bits to "fast road" their cars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
385 Posts
Tbh fast road is what the stock 180 already is a fast road.

Drew's car is going right to the top of uber road / fast track tool. But u gonna need deep pockets to go down that route.

My ideas would be:

Full exhaust with decat
Decent filter

Quality road / track tyres
Stock size but up rated discs and pads with braided lines.
Lowered springs.

Engine can stretch its legs and u have improved all road.

After that it's down to LSD , new suspension and brakes but again it's starting to add up.

Paul
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,153 Posts
Any ZS or rad car that is over 5 years can be transformed by replacing the antiroll bar bushes, the originals are not too expensive but it is surprising what a differnce to turn it it has when the roll bars can do what they were designed to. Likewise dampers new stock or oem again will make a differnce as most of these items are designed with a road life of 60K tops.

Clearly after market items can be better but actually having a damper that is working 100% makes a big differnce. Likewise lowering springs look ok but can put the damper on undue stress as the centre of gravity is below the design of the damper so you can get a lot of rebound and a choppy ride.
 

·
No longer a Rover / MG owner.
Joined
·
1,152 Posts
Quaife & Lightweight flywheel transform the 180 nicely
Agreed, coupled with what he already has - induction and zorst mods - the ZS180 should be pretty quick.

Not quite as fast as the more modern hot hatch turbocharged stuff, but the KV6 is pretty torquey.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ah , I was meaning fast road set up as in cambers and casters stuff like that.
I have already modded the car with a Motorbuild de-cat, piper cat back, ITG induction kit, light weight alloys wrapped in Toyo T1r's , braided hoses, EBC discs and yellow pads all round.also changed the oils to racing spec quality and now refurbished the gear box with bearings and a Quafe LSD. :D
So on that side of things she is ready to rock on the Air field days ^_^
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,153 Posts
Skunk 2 top arms are a must fro the front remeber to fit the wrong way round (as the ZS does with rover 45 top arms). That sorts the front.

The back lots of toys to buy but ends up with too much adjustament for a road car. Replace the rear bushes on roll bar is a good start. Lots of money spent on strut braces which help but get the body roll sorted first.

Rear anti roll bars are very easy to mod to make a lot stiffer.

Hope that helps
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,703 Posts
How do you find the yellow stuff pads and hoses? Only got mine sat here waiting for it to go on. I'm off after 7th for 18days so on it will go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
731 Posts
Ah , I was meaning fast road set up as in cambers and casters stuff like that.
I have already modded the car with a Motorbuild de-cat, piper cat back, ITG induction kit, light weight alloys wrapped in Toyo T1r's , braided hoses, EBC discs and yellow pads all round.also changed the oils to racing spec quality and now refurbished the gear box with bearings and a Quafe LSD. :D
So on that side of things she is ready to rock on the Air field days ^_^

It only took one year and one month from the original post/question to respond to peoples answers!



How do you find the yellow stuff pads and hoses? Only got mine sat here waiting for it to go on. I'm off after 7th for 18days so on it will go.

yellow stuff will not fade like standard pads. The initial bite/feel will be very impressive, perhaps even grab a little, but thats just the bed in red coating they put on, you will really see how they are (don't grab so much) once that has worn off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'v found them a massive improvement over the original pads and brake lines.
I can trust in my brakes now. :)
Look forward to the first air field day in April.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It only took one year and one month from the original post/question to respond to peoples answers!






yellow stuff will not fade like standard pads. The initial bite/feel will be very impressive, perhaps even grab a little, but thats just the bed in red coating they put on, you will really see how they are (don't grab so much) once that has worn off.
Yeah this forum needs a notice thing that tells you when people comment on your posts lol. Only just noticed today when I wanted to alter a sales add that people had replied to this. Sorry I'm not on 24/7 :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Skunk 2 top arms are a must fro the front remeber to fit the wrong way round (as the ZS does with rover 45 top arms). That sorts the front.

The back lots of toys to buy but ends up with too much adjustament for a road car. Replace the rear bushes on roll bar is a good start. Lots of money spent on strut braces which help but get the body roll sorted first.

Rear anti roll bars are very easy to mod to make a lot stiffer.

Hope that helps
Oow nice , what's the front arms like to change?

The rear bushes on the roll bars bud, can you recommend anything or just replace with OEM so there isn't any play? :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,492 Posts
Yeah this forum needs a notice thing that tells you when people comment on your posts lol. Only just noticed today when I wanted to alter a sales add that people had replied to this. Sorry I'm not on 24/7 :p
You can subscribe to threads and get an email when you get a reply.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
269 Posts
yellow stuff will not fade like standard pads. The initial bite/feel will be very impressive, perhaps even grab a little, but thats just the bed in red coating they put on, you will really see how they are (don't grab so much) once that has worn off.

Those pads sound interesting, as I've always been rather unimpressed with my 180 brakes in terms of the lack of initial bite.

Are there any downsides with the Yellow stuff pads?
Such a durability or too much locking?

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
731 Posts
Those pads sound interesting, as I've always been rather unimpressed with my 180 brakes in terms of the lack of initial bite.

Are there any downsides with the Yellow stuff pads?
Such a durability or too much locking?

Dave
The initial bite/feel will be very impressive, perhaps even grab a little, but thats just the bed in red coating they put on, you will really see how they are (don't grab so much) once that has worn off.

the bite wears off with the bed in coating.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
269 Posts
the bite wears off with the bed in coating.

Yes I got that, but once that's happened do they still have better bite than the OEM pads?

Also, what about duration/locking compared to OEM?
You already say they don't fade, so I guess hard/sustained braking is better, with more feel/control?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
731 Posts
its been that long since I had standard pads, I honestly couldn't say.

I use them for the track, although recently I fitted accord type r calipers and 300mm discs.

Yellowstuff are very good, but need changing when the pads get to 4mm if using on track.

They are a very hard compound, so will lightly score the discs - certainly after the first track day.


Fitting a brake stopper is meant to sort out the feel of the pedal, not got round to fitting mine yet.

Its the flex in the bulkhead that the master cylinder attaches to that looses its feel on the pedal.
 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Top