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Since 1987.
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92 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks.

Right so they day before yesterday a sudden fault occurred with my driver side electric window; it would go down but not up. I spent the following day trying to figure out what was wrong and eventually began to suspect the SCU (after lot's of internet-based research and eliminating the switch, motor/regulator and wires as suspects...).

That evening I decided to take a drive, still with no electric windows, and about 2 minutes down the road the car suddenly switched the hazards on all by itself, and when I pulled over to find out what the heck was going on (the red button wasn't turning them off) I realised the engine had been cut, and it would NOT start again (completely immobilised). Luckily my mum's partner is a farmer and he came and gave me a tow with his Isuzu.

So now I'm stranded at home... every time the key is turned to position 2 in the ignition (electrics on) the hazards just start flashing. The engine will turn over but won't start. I have tried disconnecting the battery and all that. I tried entering my EKA code today to see if I could at least get mobile again, but my two attempts merely resulting in the alarm going off (and it's bloody loud, so I've not tried again for the embarrassment of it) - although I think perhaps I HAD entered the wrong code, so that may have been my fault.

Any ideas of what needs to be done to fix this?

I'd rather not have to go to the dealers with this, unless I really have to have the car put on a T4. If I buy a matched set of fobs, SCU and ECU, will I be able to fit those and be ready to roll, no re-coding required? During my curiosity yesterday my accomplice and I briefly unplugged the SCU... would this have resulted in a need for a re-coding??? Or does the previous window problem hint at an SCU on the verge of meltdown? (I'm just confused as to how I was able to start the car initially, an drive down the road a mile or so...)

Any help would be HUGELY appreciated as this is starting to stress me out!!!

Cheers! :)
 

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two things firstly to check, check your alarm sounder its located under your expansion bottle, they fill up with water sometimes short things out and cause crazy fauts,

tbh the non start sounds a lot like the inertia switch which is located to the left hand side of the pedals, press down to the top and see if it starts? worth a try, the scu although the same as the zr one isnt as prone to failing due to its location, the zr one tends to get water leaking into it and causes it to fail, the zs one is under the radio. the fact it spins over it doesnt sound like an imobilizer fault, when its imobolized it wont spin just make the whining noise
 

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Since 1987.
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92 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I've had the alarm sounder problem previously (fond memories of the alarm blaring as I would drive through town) but I was able to sort that by taking it apart, drying it out and sealing it up.

I think the inertia switch could be a genius call, though! That had been removed from its bracket that day in an attempt to gain better access to the relays behind there (wasn't sure at the time if one of those was linked to the window fault, but later realised the relay 'click' was coming from the SCU instead). Hell of a diagnosis if you're right, mate. ;) I'll have to check in the morning, though, since the car is doing all sorts of unexpected things right now and I can't risk the alarm going off again at this sort of hour in a quiet neighbourhood.

Cheers very much for the suggestions! I'll update tomorrow with the news. :)
 

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well when the inertia is tripped or disconnected the hazzards flash and the fuel cuts out so just spins wont start:) so hopefully thats it, could try disconnecting the alarm see what happens but could be the problem the scu:( expensive stuff nowadasy, plus youll need two fobs if you dont have the original puc codes for your current ones
 

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To answer one of your questions yes, if you get an SCU, fobs and ECU from the same car they will all fit and you will be motoring again, I had to do this a year ago on my 180 when my SCU packed up.
 

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i bought one to keep incase mine packs up a few years don the line and theyre nla, if i never need it i can sell it when i sell the car for big monies:)
 

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Since 1987.
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92 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I reckon it could well be, to be honest. With the electrics on, the immobiliser light is off (not solid red) BUT the hazards still flash. Would that be so if the inertia switch had been tripped? Would the hazards only stop after the inertia switch has been reset?

Yeah, very expensive. I do have the bar codes for my fobs, but I was leaning a lot more towards buying a second hand matching set of SCU and fobs from ebay, but I wasn't sure if you still need to get it re-coded if you fit it to a new car? I've even been pretty temped to get the mk1 SCU, fobs, ECU and loom and connect that up because I heard it's a more sturdy option...
 

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Since 1987.
Joined
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92 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
To answer one of your questions yes, if you get an SCU, fobs and ECU from the same car they will all fit and you will be motoring again, I had to do this a year ago on my 180 when my SCU packed up.
Ah, thank you for clearing that one up for me. :) I think yours was the thread I was reading earlier... possible cost of £600 for getting the job done put the fear of God into me! lol!
 

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Since 1987.
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92 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Went out this morning, reconnected the battery, reset the inertia switch and voila! Started first time. :)

Cheers very much Ritchy! I owe you a pint! :)
 
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