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Hi All,

Have a friend of mine going to view an MGB Roadster 1977. The owner has told him that she is VGC - but you have to be suspicious - i think.

What shoudl i be looking for in terms of bodywork/suspension/tell tale signs on her?

I understand that @ 1977 vintage she will not be imaculate but just want to make sure that she is good. She has MOT for another 5/6 months so we know that she is roadworthy at least..

Any help most appriciated

Dan
 

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The main thing u should be looking for is how structurally sound the car is. u don’t want to turn up at an MOT in 5 months and be told it needs a load of welding done on it. The main areas to look for are:
Sills and castle sections
Top of the wings by the screen
Under each wheel arch
In the wells of the boot and across the floor of the boot

Other things to look for are patched weld jobs, normally means a botched repair as been made, but not always the case

Paint over spray on rubbers and chrome bits, this can mean a quick job has been done just to make it look good to sell and will possibly start to bubble in a couple of months

As for suspension, check to see if shock absorbers are not leaking and the rear leaf springs are not flat.

In the engine bay look around the head of the engine for ne water marks check the oil for water and to see if it’s been changed regularly. This should tell u whether the head gasket has gone or not

A good thing to have when buying a classic car is some sort of history as to repairs done, parts bought and old MOT certificates

I hope I have been of some help to u and havnt just told u every thing u knew neway, if the car is in VGC there shouldn’t be to much wrong with it.........................hopefully
 

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JD has done a pretty good reply.
There are tons of Bs for sale, and don't be mislead by the Summer weather and rush to buy the first you see.
Mechanically if you are handy with a spanner then there is a wealth of new remanufactured spares and a B can be easily sorted for little money on the mechanical front.
As JD says an MOT means nothing! I have viewed cars with MOT that should be taken off the road! The B is very good at hiding the rust! What you see on the surface is the tip of the iceberg! I viewed one earlier this year and fortunately the previous person looking at the car had prodded the splash panels at the back of the wheel arch which had looked solid enough, covered in underseal, but unfortunately for the seller, he had exposed a huge hole in the metal behind which there was no outer sill visible - as a result of which on showing the vendor, he immediately offered to drop the price quite substantially. You should still walk away!

A new wing is £280 for each corner! A sill job varies between a quoted £375 up to £2000 per side. These are complex, but strong, sills and whilst a BGT might get away with some rust in the sill, a Roadster won't! Unless you are handy with the MIG, and even then panels to do the sills are close on £100 per side, you are looking at huge bills for the sills alone before tackling any other welding. Inevitably, when the wings come off to do the sills, you'll find a lot of welding necessary in the inner wing areas. There comes a point where a new Heritage shell with paint at £5k makes a lot of sense!

Mechanically with so much new and recon exchange stuff about, you can sort the B mechanically for a fraction of the price of the body!

And for the record, a r/b will handle equally as well as a c/b, if it handles badly, the suspension is shot and needs re-bushing - not an expensive or difficult job, but one that will improve the handling dramatically.

A r/b is a good idea, better access under the engine bay and as it is a 1976 on, will be better specced in the suspension and under the bonnet than earlier r/b cars. It may even have an inline servo although I think that came in 1978. A r/b car can be lowered and if Chrome is your thing, it can be converted to have a grille and chrome bumpers. Above all, they are usually cheaper to buy than a c/b but won't be tax exempt.
 

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couldnt agree more with u mate, ive seen a lot of dodgy stuff tried on a few cars in the past. and unless u can weld with a good standard of work ud be better of with a heritage shell if the body work is to far gone, but that always depends on budgets
 

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gatvol said:
Isn't it great when people ask for help and then don't follow-up!
Anyone that calls a car "she" has got to be suspect and in need of treatment dddc
 
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